It's no longer a church. But The Old Stone Church Restaurant is still dedicated to nourishing souls. Beyond these gates lies fine-dining heaven.

The unforgettable part of this conversion experience is the spirit of the building itself. Built in 1888 (yes, that's really old for Colorado), the church still has its original stained-glass windows and you can sit up in the choir loft if you like. I have been in few restaurants that match the ambience of this one.

I would recommend the place solely as an architectural curiosity if the food end of the equation came up short. Oh, brother, there's no need to worry about that. Saint Francis was smiling down from his stained glass reverie as my companions and I enjoyed some of the best cuisine we've had in Colorado.

Before we even sniff the entrees, let's have a look at the auxiliaries. Many restaurants serve the bread course as an afterthought. Not so here, where you get herbed, seasoned flat bread and a delightful chimichurri (in which the marquee actors are olive oil, red wine vinegar and sweet chile sauce) for dipping.

The wine list is mostly populated with $20 to $30 selections, so we chose a $24 bottle of Colosi Sicilia Rosso, a beguilingly fruity, medium-bodied, rich Italian red.

Entree prices slot in the upper-teens to lowtwenties, which means - in this case - a high value for your dining dollar. For you nonbelievers out there, here's a quote from the menu, describing one of the meals we tried: "Alaskan Halibut panseared with shiitake mushrooms and roasted chiles, topped with lump crab and served over linguine." It tasted every bit as succulent as the description suggests, and for $20, I consider it a steal.

Another fish dish was on the specials board that night, the Chilean Sea Bass ($22), and it was likewise impeccably prepared. It came with these incredible corn hush puppies that put lots of other capable side dishes to shame.

A note on the sides: As is often the case with upscale restaurants, soups and salads are not included with your meal, but at only $4, they're not likely to upset the accountant much. It's a small price to pay for either the roasted red pepper or the citrus vinaigrette dressings, both of which were, not surprisingly, very good.

The Old Stone Church Restaurant is something of a onestop-shop for your entertainment dollar: they have a full bar (rather cheekily named the Chaplain's Bar), a patio for outdoor dining, an indoor fountain and a lunch menu that's every bit as good as the dinner one.

On that lunch menu, you'll find some unbeatable Pork Carnitas ($8), marinated in brandy and orange juice and served with tortillas. The lunch special when I visited was Crab Cakes ($9), which was very well executed, if just a notch down from ones I've had in Maryland.

And now, gentle reader, let us get serious and talk about dessert.

I know I've just about run out of superlatives for this column, but, hey, I'm just the reporter here. I could drone on about the homemade ice cream (pistachio) that covered my Chocolate Polenta Souffle ($5.50), or point out that the Crème Brulée ($5.50) is actually crème brulée - and not custard or flan - but I won't subject you to that. Instead, I'll just say try 'em all.

So the next time you're itching to confess your culinary sins, take a drive up to Castle Rock, and make restitution where you know it'll be rewarded.

I'm sure Saint Francis won't mind.

details

THE OLD STONE CHURCH

Tom's Appraisal:

For first-class dining outside the Springs, head toward Denver, then get off in Castle Rock, where The Old Stone Church Restaurant will make you a believer. This former Catholic church serves upscale fare for reasonable prices.

Address: 210 Third St. , Castle Rock

Phone: 1-303-688-9000

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays.

Chaplain's Bar serves bar food from 11 p.m. until 1 or 2 a.m.

Plastic: Yes

Checks: No

Liquor service: Full bar

Smoking: Only at bar and on the patio.

Kiddie fare: There is a separate menu.

Vegetarian options: There are a few entrees, and the chef will accommodate requests.

Handicapped access. One bathroom is accessible; two parking spaces on the side of the building; ramp to get in. Parking: City street out front and spots on the side.