The tinkling of temple bells, the smell of jasmine garlands and incense, and the low hum of Buddhist monks chanting their morning prayers. These are the sounds and smells that bring back the memories of my childhood spent in Bangkok, Thailand, so long ago.

As an 8-year old boy, I was filled with wonder and excitement as our plane touched down at Don Muang International Airport on Feb. 9, 1967. My mom, four brothers, my sister and I were joining my dad, who had arrived in country a month earlier after taking a job with the U.S. government. It was the beginning of a six and a half year stay, and a life-long love affair I have had ever since with the people, the food and the country of Thailand.

The exposure to Thailand and her people at my young age helped me to realize that life isn't about getting what we want; it's about wanting what we already have. The Thai people have a truly generous and giving nature, and through my interaction with them, I learned valuable lessons about life, spirituality, friendship and pride in one's country. Oh, did I mention the food? I REALLY love the food! Speaking fluent Thai is one benefit of having spent so much time in Thailand as a kid. I get the best treatment (not to mention the best home cooking) when I visit Thai restaurants. One of my habits is to seek out and try any local Thai restaurants as I travel the United States.

Fast forward to December 2005...

Our 9-year-old son Chance was wide-eyed with wonder and excitement as our plane touched down at Don Muang International Airport. My wife, Denise, Chance and I were arriving for a month-long stay back in the "Land of Smiles." I was overjoyed at once again returning to this place I loved so much and where I had spent the better part of my growing years. I couldn't wait to dig into my first plate of green chicken curry, visit the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and take that long awaited boat ride to one of Thailand's many islands. Life was good...

One thing I wanted Chance to experience during our visit was plenty of exposure to the Thai attitude of "mai pen rai," which translated, means essentially, "no worries." It is a saying used in response to an apology as well as a general attitude demonstrated by the Thais' lack of getting upset or angry over things which they have little control (can you say traffic jams and weather?). After a year of stressful job travels and an upcoming move from Florida to Colorado, I was ready to kick back, enjoy my time in Thailand and put on my "mai pen rai" face for all to see. I wanted Chance and Denise to feel the same way, so I set upon my goal of exposing them to as much local flavor and as many sights as possible.

After a few days in Bangkok, we decided to travel by train to Chiang Mai in the north. But before we left, we did manage to make it over to the school I attended during my stay there some 38 years earlier. It still looked the same, yet somehow smaller. We walked past the U.S. Embassy, where in 1968 we had gone on a school field trip to see President Richard Nixon, and it seemed the same, just a little more secure than I remembered. As we walked up Soi Ruam Rudee (a Soi is a street in Bangkok) we came upon Uthai's Gems, a jewelry store owned by an old friend of my mom and dad. We stopped in and shopped and caught up on old times with Uthai and his brother Paul. If you are looking for a bargain, coupled with fine craftsmanship and top notch gems, then Uthai's is the place. Once we placed our order (Denise wasn't about to leave without something in a black star sapphire and 24K gold) we promised to return later in the month to spend a little more time with my old family friend.

While in Bangkok, we stayed at the JW Marriott Hotel on Sukumvit Road. The staff is very friendly and accommodating. We were always greeted with the traditional Thai 'wai' (a folding of the hands and slight bow) and "Sawatdee." Sawatdee is a greeting used in Thailand that is similar to "Aloha" in Hawaii. It is used both to greet and to say goodbye. While the JW Marriott in Bangkok is not what most travelers consider a hotel that provides a true taste of the Thailand experience, it is a five-star hotel and has outstanding accommodations, more than enough restaurants that cater to most all tastes, and is located close to the BTS Sky Train stop. The BTS Sky Train allows travel throughout many areas of Bangkok without the hassles of traffic. For a small fee, a ride on the BTS can get you to most major areas in the city. Taxis are easy to find, and the staff at the JW is always ready and willing to help obtain a day-long chauffeured car if that is preferable. You can usually find a driver and air-conditioned car for about 2,500 Baht (about $70 U.S.) per day. It is a great way to see the sights in and just outside of Bangkok where the BTS doesn't travel.

On our third day in country, we left Bangkok for Chiang Mai, one of the larger cities in the north of Thailand. The 700 kilometer journey from Bangkok to Chiang Mai takes around 14 hours on most overnight trains. Unless you are short on time, I highly recommend the train travel to Chiang Mai over the many available domestic airline flights. Riding the trains in Thailand provides an opportunity to truly appreciate the slow rolling lush country-side, and experience the heartland of Thailand. It is a great way to enjoy the natural scenery in a relaxed manner. We really enjoyed the dining car and the vendors peddling snacks at each of the stops along the way.

In Chiang Mai, we stayed at the Sheraton Hotel. Located along the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), the hotel provided a comfortable stay, but was located a bit far from the major Chiang Mai attractions such as the Night Bazaar and the old city. One of the attractions in Chiang Mai is the Royal Winter Palace, located near the top of Doi Inthanon mountain. The palace is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., except when the Royal family is in residence, usually from mid-December to early February. The landscaped grounds of the palace are abundant with exotic flowers, trees and shrubs. A walk through this beautiful venue provides a cleansing of the mind and soul.

Approximately 6 kilometers down the mountain is Wat Pra That Doi Suthep, a beautiful golden temple that overlooks the city. I recall as a child, climbing the 300-step Naga stairway that leads to the temple grounds. Stopping to take a picture of Chance at the foot of those famous steps, I told him the story of how Wat Pra That Doi Suthep is said to contain relics from the Lord Buddha himself. Legend tells of how the temple was built in the year 1386 by King Keuna the Great. A white elephant (which only a king can own) was sent up the mountain with one-half of a sacred Buddha relic strapped to its body. When the elephant stopped climbing and lay down to rest, the site was selected to build the temple. The temple is named after Suthep Reusi, a hermit who lived there some 1,300 years ago. I can tell you that if you do not visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, you have not visited Chiang Mai.

Another attraction that Chiang Mai is widely known for is the fabulous Night Bazaar. Chiang Mai's Night Bazaar is located in the city center with bargains galore. Whether your interest is Thai Silk, exotic and intricate wood carvings, antiques, or just great Thai food, the Bazaar is the place. After an hour long foot massage for 200 Baht (approximately $6 U.S.) we began our search for trinkets and treasures among the hundreds of vendors. After scoring some awesome wood carvings and a couple gifts for friends back home, we called it a night.

The following day was spent at the Maeteman Elephant Camp where we were treated to a show of elephant skills, followed by a ride aboard our own elephants through the jungles and flat land areas of Chiang Mai. A visit to a traditional Thai mountain village and accompanying ox cart ride was next. Seeing the village and how people still live and work today was a big eye-opener for Chance. He was amazed by the simple, yet extremely efficient nature of the thatched houses with their dirt floors and teakwood walls. We finished up our Chiang Mai tour with a raft ride down the Mae Nam Ping. It was a gorgeous afternoon and the ride was peaceful and beautiful to say the least. Passing by the villages, jungles and watching the local people work along the river was a wonderful experience.

The train ride back to Bangkok was pleasant. With full stomachs filled up in the dining car, we climbed into our sleeper berths and fell asleep listening to the clickety-clack of the train tracks. Chance enjoyed the wonders of modern technology as he watched movies on his portable DVD player to help pass the time on the ride back south.

On arrival in Bangkok, we began a four-day stay that would take us up to our trip farther south and to the island of Koh Chang (Elephant Island). We did manage to get out and see a few more of the many attractions in Bangkok. Riding the BTS Sky Train to Chatuchak, the world's largest flea market (more than 9,000 vendors) we got to see a lot more of the Bangkok skyline. I was amazed by how the city had grown and prospered during the years since I had lived there. Once we arrived at Chatuchak, we were overwhelmed by the sheer number of vendor booths and stands. After wandering through at least 100 vendor stalls looking at everything from exotic animals to furniture, we finally called it quits and stopped to eat (of course!) at one of the hundreds of food vendors.

Food is one of the main reasons to visit any part of Thailand. Thai people typically eat smaller meals, but they eat four or five times a day. Small noodle carts and food stalls begin to pop up around the city along the streets and alley ways around 8 or 9 a.m. and stay up and running until late into the evening. A typical breakfast includes a small bowl of rice porridge or a hard boiled egg and rice, followed by a mid-morning snack of noodles or fried rice. Lunch is eaten around 2 p.m. and will normally be a plate of curry or other dish accompanied with rice. Dinner is usually eaten around 7 p.m. and is typically more than one dish accompanied with rice and sometimes a soup. Throughout the day, you can see fruit and dessert vendors selling their sweet snacks to the busy pedestrians traversing the city. One of our favorite things to eat from the street vendors is called "Roti". Roti has its origins in southern Asia, and is a flat tortilla type of bread that is drizzled with sweetened condensed milk and sugar, rolled up in a piece of paper and served hot. Coupled with a cup of strong, hot Thai coffee, this is a treat that can't be beat. There are other versions of Roti that may include curry, sliced bananas, as well as many other types of toppings, but the traditional sweet version is our favorite.

To get a better understanding of the culture and heritage that is Thailand, it is worth a visit to the "Ancient City." This 320-acre park has reproductions of many significant architectural and historical places from throughout Thailand. We visited the park during our stay in Thailand, and thoroughly enjoyed riding our rented bicycles through the park and seeing the many reproductions. There are more than 100 monuments and buildings collected or reproduced. Some are reconstructions of buildings that no longer exist, while others are examples of traditional Thai architecture. As with most any tourist attraction in Thailand, there are plenty of locations to stop and grab a bite to eat in the park. Plan to spend most of a full day here as there is a lot to see and do. A camera is an absolute necessity here.

We (Chance and I) next paid a visit to the Bangkok Snake Farm. While Denise was raised as an Iowa farm girl, snakes just aren't her bag. She made that very clear when I initially raised the idea. So while she went to the spa for a full day of pampering, Chance and I ventured out and rode the Bangkok subway (another great way to get around the city) to the Queen Saowapha Memorial Institute, also known as the Bangkok Snake Farm. The Institute produces anti-venom serum for snake-bite victims and is provided to medical facilities nationwide. Venomous snakes on display at the farm include the king cobra, Siamese cobra, Russell's viper, banded krait, Malayan pit viper, green pit viper and Pope's pit viper. The snakes are milked daily for their venom to be used in the anti-venom. Shows are daily at 10:30 a.m. and 2 p.m. with displays of venom-milking and snake-handling. A slide show and briefing precedes the show with information on herpetology and toxicology. I was amazed at how little the Snake Farm itself and the shows had changed since I had seen it as a kid. I remembered seeing and doing the exact same things back in 1967. Chance had an opportunity to hold a very large Burmese python during the show. I videotaped it with hopes that Denise wouldn't faint when we showed her the footage. The Snake Farm is located on Rama IV Road, near Henri Dunant Avenue and is open to the public every day from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. on weekdays, and 8:30 a.m. to noon on weekends and public holidays.

Our next adventure phase began with a six-hour bus ride southeast from Bangkok to the province of Trat. We boarded a boat and headed to Koh Chang (Elephant Island) for a weeklong stay. The Coconut Beach Resort became home for a week of fun and relaxation on the island. During our stay, we had lots to see and do. Starting with an elephant ride through rubber plantations and jungle, we also visited the Koh Chang National Marine Park and Than Mayom Waterfalls. The waterfall can be reached via the main road that encircles Koh Chang. A short walk through the durian and rubber orchards brought us to the three-story cascading waterfalls. One thing the falls are known for is the rocks at the top of the falls that bear the inscriptions of Kings Rama VI and VII. After lots of relaxing beach time, swimming and food it was time to leave Koh Chang and head back to Bangkok with another scheduled trip back to Chiang mai before our final departure for home.

Our second trip to Chiang Mai was primarily to attend a traditional Thai wedding. My brother married a lovely Thai lady named Tiki, and we were invited to her village just outside of Chiang Mai to participate in the celebration. This time we took a short one-and-a-half hour flight from Bangkok to the Chiang Mai airport. Domestic flights are plentiful and cheap, with regular daily service to and from Bangkok.

If you've never been to one, Thai weddings are a combination of celebration, tradition and drama. The groom parades and dances down the street with a band of musicians playing and family members tagging along to the home of the bride. Once the groom arrives at the gates of the home, he must present money and gifts to the bride's family members. If he provides enough money and adequate gifts, the gate is opened and he is then permitted to enter the premises to ask for the hand of his bride. The celebration continues with Buddhist monks and village elders present. Once the official marriage ceremony has been conducted, the bride and groom invite family members to approach and pour holy water over their hands and wish them well. Strings are tied around the bride and groom's wrists by each person pouring the water to signify the binding marriage and to bring luck to the newly betrothed couple. We really enjoyed the celebration, and the food, partying and dancing continued into the wee hours.

On our final full day in Chiang Mai, Denise, Chance and I attended a traditional Thai cooking school. Cooking schools have become more and more popular in recent years. The school we attended was the Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School. The school was the first to be opened in Chiang Mai in 1993. It is run by Sompon Nabnian, a well-known Thai TV chef, and his English wife, Elizabeth. The school offers five courses with courses offered during five consecutive days. The course lasts all day, and the school is operated seven days a week, so if you miss a course you want to take, you can catch it again four days later. We were fortunate enough to be scheduled for Course No. 5, which included a variety of dishes. We started with Clear Soup with Minced Pork (Tom Jued), which was followed by Spring Rolls (Paw Pia Tord), Roast Duck Curry (Gaeng Phed Ped Yang), and Fried Chicken With Ginger (Gai Phad King). One of the best parts of the school was that we got to eat everything we cooked! After lunch, we moved on to the art of vegetable carving, learning the basics of vegetable carving including how to make a flower and how to carve leaves. We made a rose from a tomato, and a leaf from a carrot slice! After that, we worked on a couple of more recipes to include Chicken In Pandanus Leaves (Gai Hor Bai Toey) and Mango With Sticky Rice (Khaaw Neaw Mamuang). With our successful graduation and full stomachs, we thanked the great staff at Sompon's school and headed back to our hotel for one final night before our final flight to Bangkok, and then home.

As our plane took off from Don Muang airport toward our first stop in Seoul, South Korea, I reflected back on our 30 days in Thailand and how much I realized I would miss this beautiful country and the people. I remembered that same sad feeling that I had felt so long ago when I left Thailand at the ripe old age of 14 and headed back to the United States after being gone for six and a half years. I knew then, as I know now, that I would some day return to this land of temples, this land of beauty, this land of wonderful people... this "Land of Smiles." Oh, and did I mention the food??